Ok, now I had to Google what the difference is between Holland and the Netherlands. The former is the combination of two provinces (South and North Holland) and the latter is the proper name for the whole country (12 provinces). Now that we left Holland and entered Brabant province, I should probably not compliment the locals with “you have amazing cycling infrastructure here in Holland” anymore.
The day started with an amazing breakfast at the Stalzolder B&B, where we sat with a Swiss/Dutch couple and spoke Swiss German the whole time! They are cycle-touring as well and are going to a place in the Netherlands (ha!) that they have never been. I understand that if you are used to cycling here, you would have a hard time going anyplace else. They said they once tried cycling past Belgium (apparently not AS nice cycling infrastructure as the Netherlands, but still ok) into France, but decided to turn around after deeming the cycle paths subpar. I can relate to that feeling after enjoying the perfectly groomed, super-baby-bum-smooth, dedicated cycling paths for the last couple days.
Anne and Reece already mentioned the dedicated cycle paths, and it makes sense that if both culture and city-planning have been very cycle friendly for the last 70+ years, the infrastructure will look the part.
Another cool feature of the infrastructure here is the navigation system. The cycle network is organized with numbered nodes, and the many signs along the way tell you to which node you are going. So people here navigate with a list like 28, 16, 52, 11, 60, which tells them to follow sings to Node 28, then Node 16, and so on. A lady that passed us at breakfast yesterday even had a clip on her handlebar to hold a small, laminated card with her waypoints (maybe a rented bike that comes with a nice tour suggestion?).
Back to today’s cycling: Last night, Betsy and Arndt who run the B&B told us that Thursday mornings is the traditional cheese market in Gouda. We arrived in time to see some kind of performance by a farmer and a cheese buyer.
The man in white later started chatting to Liz and he says he buys/sells 750 tons of Gouda a week (not sure we heard that right). When we said we are from Switzerland he mentioned that he supplies the Swiss grocery chain Denner and that he has a mountain hut in Wallis. Of course, we had to buy some Gouda, too.
First, we did a photo-op with the help of a local councilman who was checking out how the market was going. Then we bought some aged (8 months) Gouda that goes for 12 Euro a kg. Compared to Swiss farmer’s market prices, that is less than half. After getting some bread and apple-filled puffy sugar triangles, we had lunch sorted.
Through farmland we arrived at Krimpen aan de Lek for the first of three ferry crossings of the day that cost us 80 cents a piece. On foot, it is 5 cents less.
Then we noticed lots of tourists around. Sure enough, we arrived in a very Dutch part of the Netherlands with tons of windmills – actually part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Following a national bike route paid off once more! Having completed about half of today’s route, we decided to stop for lunch.
Strengthenend from the quite delicious Gouda (they only sell the bland, non-aged kind at Denner, which is a pity), we cycled on and arrived, having taken another ferry, in the Nationaal Park de Biesbosch. We stopped at the park’s museum for a cold Coke (it was very much summer today) and admired its architecture that makes it blend in with its surroundings.
Our stop for the day was a B&B in a 19-th century fort, so we had to get dinner from a supermarket in the nearby town. From there, it was a short ride up the Bakkerskil to the fort, where we were greeted by the very nice owners and two nice, cold radlers. The owners have started and have been running the B&B in the fort for the last several years. They had to restore the fort to its original state from 1880, for which dozens of trucks had to haul soil to the fort for its soil and grass cover. I am writing this in our room that has three meters of soil on its roof. Our room is the old explosives storage and has a wonderful view onto the bike path and landscape. A great find for the rest day tomorrow!
Total distance/elevation to date: 1570km/10’480m
Day 20 Route and Stats
The 1948 Tour 
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